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and whiteness of its eastern shores； and the wonderful manner in which
the scanty patches of land are intersected with lakes and pools of water； it
becomes； even in daylight； a deception； and has often been fatally
mistaken for an open sea。 It had even become proverbial with some of
the inhabitants to observe that 〃if wrecks were to happen； they might as
well be sent to the poor isle of Sanday as anywhere else。〃 On this and
the neighbouring islands the inhabitants had certainly had their share of
wrecked goods； for the eye is presented with these melancholy remains in
almost every form。 For example； although quarries are to be met with
generally in these islands； and the stones are very suitable for building
dykes （ANGLICE； walls）； yet instances occur of the land being enclosed；
even to a considerable extent； with ship…timbers。 The author has actually
seen a park （ANGLICE； meadow） paled round chiefly with cedar…wood
and mahogany from the wreck of a Honduras…built ship； and in one island；
after the wreck of a ship laden with wine； the inhabitants have been known
to take claret to their barley…meal porridge。 On complaining to one of the
pilots of the badness of his boat's sails； he replied to the author with some
degree of pleasantry； 〃Had it been His will that you came na' here wi' your
lights； we might 'a' had better sails to our boats； and more o' other things。〃
It may further be mentioned that when some of Lord Dundas's farms are to
be let in these islands a competition takes place for the lease； and it is
BONA FIDE understood that a much higher rent is paid than the lands
would otherwise give were it not for the chance of making considerably by
the agency and advantages attending shipwrecks on the shores of the
respective farms。'
The people of North Ronaldsay still spoke Norse； or； rather； mixed it
with their English。 The walls of their huts were built to a great thickness
of rounded stones from the sea…beach； the roof flagged； loaded with earth；
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and perforated by a single hole for the escape of smoke。 The grass grew
beautifully green on the flat house…top； where the family would assemble
with their dogs and cats； as on a pastoral lawn； there were no windows；
and in my grandfather's expression； ‘there was really no demonstration of
a house unless it were the diminutive door。' He once landed on
Ronaldsay with two friends。 The inhabitants crowded and pressed so
much upon the strangers that the bailiff； or resident factor of the island；
blew with his ox…horn； calling out to the natives to stand off and let the
gentlemen come forward to the laird； upon which one of the islanders； as
spokesman； called out； 〃God ha'e us； man！ thou needsna mak' sic a noise。
It's no' every day we ha'e THREE HATTED MEN on our isle。〃 ' When
the Surveyor of Taxes came （for the first time； perhaps） to Sanday； and
began in the King's name to complain of the unconscionable swarms of
dogs； and to menace the inhabitants with taxation； it chanced that my
grandfather and his friend； Dr。 Patrick Neill； were received by an old lady
in a Ronaldsay hut。 Her hut； which was similar to the model described；
stood on a Ness； or point of land jutting into the sea。 They were made
welcome in the firelit cellar； placed ‘in CASEY or straw…worked chairs；
after the Norwegian fashion； with arms； and a canopy overhead；' and given
milk in a wooden dish。 These hospitalities attended to； the old lady
turned at once to Dr。 Neill； whom she took for the Surveyor of Taxes。
‘Sir；' said she； ‘gin ye'll tell the King that I canna keep the Ness free o' the
Bangers （sheep） without twa hun's； and twa guid hun's too； he'll pass me
threa the tax on dugs。'
This familiar confidence； these traits of engaging simplicity； are
characters of a secluded people。 Mankind … and； above all； islanders …
come very swiftly to a bearing； and find very readily； upon one convention
or another； a tolerable corporate life。 The danger is to those from without；
who have not grown up from childhood in the islands； but appear suddenly
in that narrow horizon； life…sized apparitions。 For these no bond of
humanity exists； no feeling of kinship is awakened by their peril； they will
assist at a shipwreck； like the fisher…folk of Lunga； as spectators； and when
the fatal scene is over； and the beach strewn with dead bodies； they will
fence their fields with mahogany； and； after a decent grace； sup claret to
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their porridge。 It is not wickedness： it is scarce evil； it is only； in its
highest power； the sense of isolation and the wise disinterestedness of
feeble and poor races。 Think how many viking ships had sailed by these
islands in the past； how many vikings had landed； and raised turmoil； and
broken up the barrows of the dead； and carried off the wines of the living；
and blame them； if you are able； for that belief （which may be called one
of the parables of the devil's gospel） that a man rescued from the sea will
prove the bane of his deliverer。 It might be thought that my grandfather；
coming there unknown； and upon an employment so hateful to the
inhabitants； must have run the hazard of his life。 But this were to
misunderstand。 He came franked by the laird and the clergyman； he was
the King's officer； the work was ‘opened with prayer by the Rev。 Walter
Trail； minister of the parish'； God and the King had decided it； and the
people of these pious islands bowed their heads。 There landed； indeed； in
North Ronaldsay； during the last decade of the eighteenth century； a
traveller whose life seems really to have been imperilled。 A very little
man of a swarthy complexion； he came ashore； exhausted and unshaved；
from a long boat passage； and lay down to sleep in the home of the parish
schoolmaster。 But he had been seen landing。 The inhabitants had
identified him for a Pict； as； by some singular confusion of name； they
called the dark and dwarfish aboriginal people of the land。 Immediately
the obscure ferment of a race…hatred； grown into a superstition； began to
work in their bosoms； and they crowded about the house and the room…
door with fearful whisperings。 For some time the schoolmaster held
them at bay； and at last despatched a messenger to call my grand…father。
He came： he found the islanders beside themselves at this unwelcome
resurrection of the dead and the detested； he was shown； as adminicular of
testimony； the traveller's uncouth and thick…soled boots； he argued； and
finding argument unavailing； consented to enter the room and examine
with his own eyes the sleeping Pict。 One glance was sufficient： the man
was now a missionary； but he had been before that an Edinburgh
shopkeeper with whom my grandfather had dealt。 He came forth again
with this report； and the folk of the island； wholly relieved； dispersed to
their own houses。 They were timid as sheep and ignorant as limpets； that
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was all。 But the Lord deliver us from the tender mercies of a frightened
flock！
I will give two more instances of their superstition。 When Sir Walter
Scott visited the Stones of Stennis； my grandfather put in his pocket a
hundred…foot line； which he unfortunately lost。
‘Some years afterwards；' he writes； ‘one of my assistants on a visit to
the Stones of Stennis took shelter from a storm in a cottage close by the
lake； and seeing a box…measuring… line in the bole or sole of the cottage
window； he asked the woman where she got this well…known professional