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back the cloth which the 〃Orang… kaya〃 had transferred to him in prepayment。 This had the desired effect； matters were soon arranged； and we started the next morning。 The wind； however； was dead against us； and after rowing hard till midday we put in to a small river where there were few huts； to cook our dinners。 The place did not look very promising； but as we could not reach our destination； the Watelai river； owing to the contrary wind； I thought we might as well wait here a day or two。 I therefore paid a chopper for the use of a small shed； and got my bed and some boxes on shore。 In the evening； after dark； we were suddenly alarmed by the cry of 〃Bajak！ bajak！〃 （Pirates！） The men all seized their bows and spears； and rushed down to the beach； we got hold of our guns and prepared for action； but in a few minutes all came back laughing and chattering； for it had proved to be only a small boat and some of their own comrades returned from fishing。 When all was quiet again； one of the men； who could speak a little Malay； came to me and begged me not to sleep too hard。 〃Why？〃 said I。 〃Perhaps the pirates may really come；〃 said he very seriously； which made me laugh and assure him I should sleep as hard as I could。
Two days were spent here； but the place was unproductive of insects or birds of interest； so we made another attempt to get on。 As soon as we got a little away from the land we had a fair wind； and in six hours' sailing reached the entrance of the Watelai channel； which divides the most northerly from the middle portion of Aru。 At its mouth this was about half a mile wide； but soon narrowed； and a mile or two on it assumed entirely the aspect of a river about the width of the Thames at London； winding among low but undulating and often hilly country。 The scene was exactly such as might be expected in the interior of a continent。 The channel continued of a uniform average width； with reaches and sinuous bends； one bank being often precipitous； or even forming vertical cliffs； while the other was flat and apparently alluvial； and it was only the pure salt…water； and the absence of any stream but the slight flux and reflux of the tide； that would enable a person to tell that he was navigating a strait and not a river。 The wind was fair； and carried us along； with occasional assistance from our oars； till about three in the afternoon； when we landed where a little brook formed two or three basins in the coral rock； and then fell in a miniature cascade into the salt water river。 Here we bathed and cooked our dinner； and enjoyed ourselves lazily till sunset； when we pursued our way for two hours snore； and then moored our little vessel to an overhanging tree for the night。
At five the next morning we started again； and in an hour overtook four large praus containing the 〃Commissie；〃 who had come from Dobbo to make their official tour round the islands； and had passed us in the eight。 I paid a visit to the Dutchmen； one of whom spoke a little English； but we found that we could get on much better with Malay。 They told me that they had been delayed going after the pirates to one of the northern islands； and had seen three of their vessels but could not catch them； because on being pursued they rowed out in the wind's eye； which they are enabled to do by having about fifty oars to each boat。 Having had some tea with thorn； I bade them adieu； and turned up a narrow channel which our pilot said would take us to the village of Watelai； on the west side… of Are。 After going some miles we found the channel nearly blocked up with coral； so that our boat grated along the bottom； crunching what may truly be called the living rock。 Sometimes all hands had to get out and wade； to lighten the vessel and lift it over the shallowest places； but at length we overcame all obstacles and reached a wide bay or estuary studded with little rocks and islets； and opening to the western sea and the numerous islands of the 〃blakang…tuna。〃 I now found that the village we were going to was miles away； that we should have to go out to sea； and round a rocky point。 A squall seemed coming on； and as I have a horror of small boats at sea； and from all I could learn Watelai village was not a place to stop at （no birds of Paradise being found there）； I determined to return and go to a village I had heard of up a tributary of the Watelai river； and situated nearly in the centre of the mainland of Aru。 The people there were said to be good； and to be accustomed to hunting and bird…catching； being too far inland to get any part of their food from the sea。 While I was deciding this point the squall burst upon us； and soon raised a rolling sea in the shallow water； which upset an oil bottle and a lamp； broke some of my crockery； and threw us all into confusion。 Rowing hard we managed to get back into the main river by dusk； and looked out for a place to cook our suppers。 It happened to be high water； and a very high tide； so that every piece of sand or beach was covered； and it was with the greatest difficulty； and after much groping in the dark； that we discovered a little sloping piece of rock about two feet square on which to make a fire and cook some rice。 The next day we continued our way back； and on the following day entered a stream on the south side of the Watelai river； and ascending to where navigation ceased found the little village of Wanumbai； consisting of two large houses surrounded by plantations； amid the virgin forests of Aru。
As I liked the look of the place； and was desirous of staying some time； I sent my pilot to try and make a bargain for house accommodation。 The owner and chief man of the place made many excuses。 First； be was afraid I would not like his house； and then was doubtful whether his son； who was away； would like his admitting me。 I had a long talk with him myself； and tried to explain what I was doing； and how many things I would buy of them； and showed him my stock of heads； and knives； and cloth； and tobacco； all of which I would spend with his family and friends if he would give me house…room。 He seemed a little staggered at this； and said he； would talk to his wife； and in the meantime I went for a little walk to see the neighbourhood。 When I carne back； I again sent my pilot； saying that I would go away if he would not dive me part of his house。 In about half an hour he returned with a demand for about half the cost of building a house； for the rent of a small portion of it for a few weeks。 As the only difficulty now was a pecuniary one； I got out about ten yards of cloth； an axe； with a few beads and some tobacco； and sent them as my final offer for the part of the house which I had before pointed out。 This was accepted after a little more talk； and I immediately proceeded to take possession。
The house was a good large one； raised as usual about seven feet on posts； the walls about three or four feet more； with a high… pitched roof。 The floor was of bamboo laths； and in the sloping roof way an immense shutter； which could be lifted and propped up to admit light and air。 At the end where this was situated the floor was raised about a foot； and this piece； about ten feet wide by twenty long； quite open to the rest of the house； was the portion I was to occupy。 At one end of this piece； separated by a thatch partition； was a cooking place； with a clay floor and shelves for crockery。 At the opposite end I had my mosquito curtain hung； and round the walls we arranged my boxes and other stores； fated up a table and seat； and with a little cleaning and dusting made the place look quite comfortable。 My boat was then hauled up on shore； and covered with palm…leaves； the sails and oars brought indoors； a hanging…stage for drying my specimens erected outside the house and another inside； and my boys were set to clean their gnus and get ail ready for beginning work。
The next day I occupied myself in exploring the paths in the immediate neighbourhood。 The small river up which we had ascended ceases to be navigable at this point； above which it is a little rocky brook； which quite dries up in the hot season。 There was now； however； a fair stream of water in it； and a path which was partly in and partly by the side of the water； promised well for insects； as I here saw the magnificent blue butterfly； Papilio ulysses； as well as several other fine species； flopping lazily along； sometimes resting high up on the foliage which drooped over the water； at others settling down on the damp rock or on the edges of muddy pools。 A little way on several paths branched off through patches of second…growth forest to cane…fields； gardens； and scattered houses； beyond which again the dark wall of verdure striped with tree…trunks； marked out the limits of the primeval forests。 The voices of many birds promised good shooting； and on my return I found that my boy s had already obtained two or three kinds I had not seen before； and in the evening a native brought me a rare and beautiful species of ground…thrush （Pitta novaeguinaeae） hitherto only known from New Guinea。
As I improved my acquaintance with them I became much interested in these people； who are a fair sample of the true savage inhabitants of the Aru Islands； tolerably free from foreig