按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！
itself into the sky like some gigantic dervish hat。 Above the Arab
town； and even in the sand of the neighbouring desert； these funeral
domes may be seen on every side adjoining the old mosques to which
they belong。 And in the evening； when the light is failing； they
suggest the odd idea that it is the dead man himself； immensely
magnified； who stands there beneath a hat that is become immense。 One
can pray； if one wishes； in this resting…place of the dead saint as
well as in the mosque。 Here indeed it is always more secluded and more
in shadow。 It is more simple； too； at least up to the height of a man：
on a platform of white marble； more or less worn and yellowed by the
touch of pious hands； nothing more than an austere catafalque of
similar marble； ornamented merely with a Cufic inscription。 But if you
raise your eyes to look at the interior of the domethe inside； as it
were； of the strange dervish hatyou will see shining between the
clusters of painted and gilded stalactites a number of windows of
exquisite colouring； little windows that seem to be constellations of
emeralds and rubies and sapphires。 And the birds； you may be sure；
have their nests also in the house of the holy one。 They are wont
indeed to soil the carpets and the mats on which the worshippers
kneel； and their nests are so many blots up there amid the gildings of
the carved cedarwood； but then their song； the symphony that issues
from that aviary； is so sweet to the living who pray and to the dead
who dream。 。 。 。
*****
But yet； when all is said； these mosques seem somehow to be wanting。
They do not wholly satisfy you。 The access to them perhaps is too
easy； and one feels too near to the modern quarters of the town； where
the hotels are full of visitorsso that at any moment； it seems； the
spell may be broken by the entry of a batch of Cook's tourists； armed
with the inevitable /Baedeker/。 Alas！ they are the mosques of Cairo；
of poor Cairo； that is invaded and profaned。 The memory turns to those
of Morocco； so jealously guarded； to those of Persia； even to those of
Old Stamboul； where the shroud of Islam envelops you in silence and
gently bows your shoulders as soon as you cross their thresholds。
And yet what pains are being taken to…day to preserve these mosques；
which in olden times were such delightful retreats。 Neglected for
whole centuries； never repaired； notwithstanding the veneration of
their heedless worshippers； the greater part of them were fallen into
ruin； the fine woodwork of their interiors had become worm…eaten；
their cupolas were cracked and their mosaics covered the floor as with
a hail of mother…of…pearl； of porphyry and marble。 It seemed that to
repair all this was a task incapable of fulfilment； it was sheer
folly； people said； to conceive the idea of it。
Nevertheless； for nearly twenty years now an army of workers has been
at the task； sculptors； marble…cutters； mosaicists。 Already certain of
the sanctuaries； the most venerable of them indeed； have been entirely
renovated。 After having re…echoed for some years to the sounds of
hammers and chisels； during the course of these vast renovations； they
are restored now to peace and to prayer； and the birds have
recommenced to build their nests in them。
It will be the glory of the present reign that it has preserved；
before it was too late； all this magnificent legacy of Moslem art。
When the city of 〃The Arabian Nights；〃 which was formerly there； shall
have entirely disappeared； to give place to a vulgar /entrepot/ of
commerce and of pleasure； to which the plutocracy of the whole world
comes every winter to disport itself； so much at least will remain to
bear testimony to the lofty and magnificent thought that inspired the
earlier Arab life。 These mosques will continue to remain into the
distant future； even when men shall have ceased to pray in them； and
the winged guests shall have departed； for the want of those troughs
of water from the Nile； filled for them by the good imams； whose
hospitality they repay by making heard in the courts； beneath the
arched roofs； beneath the ceilings of cedarwood； the sweet； piping
music of birds。
CHAPTER IV
THE HALL OF THE MUMMIES
There are two of us； and as we light our way by the aid of a lantern
through these vast halls we might be taken for a night watch on its
round。 We have just shut behind us and doubly locked the door by which
we entered； and we know that we are alone； rigorously alone； although
this place is so vast； with its endless； communicating halls； its high
vestibules and great flights of stairs； mathematically alone； one
might say； for this palace that we are in is one quite out of the
ordinary； and all its outlets were closed and sealed at nightfall。
Every night indeed the doors are sealed； on account of the priceless
relics that are collected here。 So we shall not meet with any living
being in these halls to…night； in spite of their vast extent and
endless turnings； and in spite too of all these mysterious things that
are ranged on every side and fill the place with shadows and hiding…
places。
Our round takes us first along the ground floor over flagstones that
resound to our footsteps。 It is about ten of the clock。 Here and there
through some stray windows gleams a small patch of luminous blue sky；
lit by the stars which for the good folk outside lend transparency to
the night； but there； none the less； the place is filled with a solemn
gloom； and we lower our voices； remembering perhaps the dead that fill
the glass cases in the halls above。
And these things which line the walls on either side of us as we pass
also seem to be in the nature of receptacles for the dead。 For the
most part they are sarcophagi of granite； proud and indestructible：
some of them； in the shape of gigantic boxes； are laid out in line on
pedestals； others； in the form of mummies； stand upright against the
walls and display enormous faces； surmounted by equally enormous head…
dresses。 Assembled there they look like a lot of malformed giants；
with oversized heads sunk curiously in their shoulders。 There are；
besides； some that are merely statues； colossal figures that have
never held a corpse in their interiors； these all wear a strange；
scarcely perceptible smile； in their huge sphinxlike headgear they
reach nearly to the ceiling and their set stare passes high above our
heads。 And there are others that are not larger than ourselves； some
even quite little； with the stature of gnomes。 And； every now and
then； at some sudden turning； we encounter a pair of eyes of enamel；
wide…open eyes； that pierce straight into the depths of ours； that
seem to follow us as we pass and make us shiver as if by the contact
of a thought that comes from the abysm of the ages。
We pass on rapidly； however； and somewhat inattentively； for our
business here to…night is not with these simulacra on the ground
floor； but with the more redoubtable hosts above。 Besides our lantern
sheds so little light in these great halls that all these people of
granite and sandstone and marble appear only at the precise moment of
our passage； appear only to disappear； and； spreading their fantastic
shadows on the walls； mingle the next moment with the great mute
crowd； that grows ever more numerous behind us。
Placed at intervals are apparatus for use in case of fire； coils of
hose and standpipes that shine with the warm glow of burnished copper；
and I ask my companion of the watch： 〃What is there that could burn
here？ Are not these good people all of stone？〃 And he answers： 〃Not
here indeed； but consider how the things that are above would blaze。〃
Ah！ yes。 The 〃things that are above〃which are indeed the object of
my visit to…night。 I had no thought of fire catching hold in an
assembly of mummies； of the old withered flesh； the dead； dry hair；
the venerable carcasses of kings and queens； soaked as they are in
natron and oils； crackling like so many boxes of matches。 It is
chiefly on account of this danger indeed that the seals are put upon
the doors at nightfall； and that it needs a special favour to be
allowed to penetrate into this place at night with a lantern。
In the daytime this 〃Museum of Egyptian Antiquities〃 is as vulgar a
thing as you can conceive； filled though it is with priceless
treasures。 It is the most pompous； the most outrageous of those
buildings； of no style at all； by which each year the New Cairo is
enriched； open to all who care to gaze at close quarters； in a light
that is almost brutal； upon these august dead； who fondly thought that
they had hidden themselves for ever。
But at night！ 。 。 。 Ah！ at night when all the doors are closed； it is
the palace of nightmare and of fear。 At night； so say the Arab
guardians； who would not enter it at the price of goldno； not even
after offering up a prayerat night； horrible 〃forms〃 escape； not