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ensuing twenty…four hours。
The remainder of my costume was fairly easy to put on； though the
brogans； or brogues； were quite a problem。 As stiff and hard as if made
of wood； it was only after a prolonged pounding of the uppers with my
fists that I was able to get my feet into them at all。 Then； with a few
shillings； a knife； a handkerchief； and some brown papers and flake
tobacco stowed away in my pockets； I thumped down the stairs and said
good…bye to my foreboding friends。 As I paused out of the door； the
〃help；〃 a comely middle…aged woman； could not conquer a grin that
twisted her lips and separated them till the throat； out of involuntary
sympathy； made the uncouth animal noises we are wont to designate as
〃laughter。〃
No sooner was I out on the streets than I was impressed by the
difference in status effected by my clothes。 All servility vanished from
the demeanour of the common people with whom I came in contact。
Presto！ in the twinkling of an eye； so to say； I had become one of them。
My frayed and out…at…elbows jacket was the badge and advertisement of
my class； which was their class。 It made me of like kind； and in place of
the fawning and too respectful attention I had hitherto received； I now
shared with them a comradeship。 The man in corduroy and dirty
neckerchief no longer addressed me as 〃sir〃 or 〃governor。〃 It was 〃mate〃
nowand a fine and hearty word； with a tingle to it； and a warmth and
gladness； which the other term does not possess。 Governor！ It smacks
of mastery； and power； and high authoritythe tribute of the man who is
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under to the man on top； delivered in the hope that he will let up a bit and
ease his weight； which is another way of saying that it is an appeal for
alms。
This brings me to a delight I experienced in my rags and tatters which
is denied the average American abroad。 The European traveller from the
States； who is not a Croesus； speedily finds himself reduced to a chronic
state of self…conscious sordidness by the hordes of cringing robbers who
clutter his steps from dawn till dark； and deplete his pocket…book in a way
that puts compound interest to the blush。
In my rags and tatters I escaped the pestilence of tipping； and
encountered men on a basis of equality。 Nay； before the day was out I
turned the tables； and said； most gratefully； 〃Thank you； sir；〃 to a
gentleman whose horse I held； and who dropped a penny into my eager
palm
Other changes I discovered were wrought in my condition by my new
garb。 In crossing crowded thoroughfares I found I had to be； if anything；
more lively in avoiding vehicles； and it was strikingly impressed upon me
that my life had cheapened in direct ratio with my clothes。 When before
I inquired the way of a policeman； I was usually asked； 〃Bus or 'ansom；
sir？〃 But now the query became； 〃Walk or ride？〃 Also； at the railway
stations； a third…class ticket was now shoved out to me as a matter of
course。
But there was compensation for it all。 For the first time I met the
English lower classes face to face； and knew them for what they were。
When loungers and workmen； at street corners and in public… houses；
talked with me； they talked as one man to another； and they talked as
natural men should talk； without the least idea of getting anything out of
me for what they talked or the way they talked。
And when at last I made into the East End； I was gratified to find that
the fear of the crowd no longer haunted me。 I had become a part of it。
The vast and malodorous sea had welled up and over me； or I had slipped
gently into it； and there was nothing fearsome about itwith the one
exception of the stoker's singlet。
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CHAPTER IIJOHNNY
UPRIGHT
I shall not give you the address of Johnny Upright。 Let it suffice that
he lives in the most respectable street in the East Enda street that would
be considered very mean in America； but a veritable oasis in the desert of
East London。 It is surrounded on every side by close…packed squalor and
streets jammed by a young and vile and dirty generation； but its own
pavements are comparatively bare of the children who have no other place
to play； while it has an air of desertion； so few are the people that come
and go。
Each house in this street； as in all the streets； is shoulder to shoulder
with its neighbours。 To each house there is but one entrance； the front
door； and each house is about eighteen feet wide； with a bit of a brick…
walled yard behind； where； when it is not raining； one may look at a slate…
coloured sky。 But it must be understood that this is East End opulence
we are now considering。 Some of the people in this street are even so well…
to…do as to keep a 〃slavey。〃 Johnny Upright keeps one； as I well know；
she being my first acquaintance in this particular portion of the world。
To Johnny Upright's house I came； and to the door came the 〃slavey。〃
Now； mark you； her position in life was pitiable and contemptible； but it
was with pity and contempt that she looked at me。 She evinced a plain
desire that our conversation should be short。 It was Sunday； and Johnny
Upright was not at home； and that was all there was to it。 But I lingered；
discussing whether or not it was all there was to it； till Mrs。 Johnny
Upright was attracted to the door； where she scolded the girl for not
having closed it before turning her attention to me。
No； Mr。 Johnny Upright was not at home； and further； he saw nobody
on Sunday。 It is too bad； said I。 Was I looking for work？ No； quite
the contrary； in fact； I had come to see Johnny Upright on business which
might be profitable to him。
A change came over the face of things at once。 The gentleman in
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question was at church； but would be home in an hour or thereabouts；
when no doubt he could be seen。
Would I kindly step in？no； the lady did not ask me； though I fished
for an invitation by stating that I would go down to the corner and wait in
a public…house。 And down to the corner I went； but； it being church time；
the 〃pub〃 was closed。 A miserable drizzle was falling； and； in lieu of
better； I took a seat on a neighbourly doorstep and waited。
And here to the doorstep came the 〃slavey；〃 very frowzy and very
perplexed； to tell me that the missus would let me come back and wait in
the kitchen。
〃So many people come 'ere lookin' for work；〃 Mrs。 Johnny Upright
apologetically explained。 〃So I 'ope you won't feel bad the way I spoke。〃
〃Not at all； not at all；〃 I replied in my grandest manner； for the nonce
investing my rags with dignity。 〃I quite understand； I assure you。 I
suppose people looking for work almost worry you to death？〃
〃That they do；〃 she answered； with an eloquent and expressive glance；
and thereupon ushered me into； not the kitchen； but the dining rooma
favour； I took it； in recompense for my grand manner。
This dining…room； on the same floor as the kitchen； was about four feet
below the level of the ground； and so dark （it was midday） that I had to
wait a space for my eyes to adjust themselves to the gloom。 Dirty light
filtered in through a window； the top of which was on a level with a
sidewalk； and in this light I found that I was able to read newspaper print。
And here； while waiting the coming of