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night。
A place connected in my memory with a tragic association was across
the river on the last southern slope of the Palisades。 Here we stood
breathless while my father told the brief story of the duel between Burr
and Hamilton； and showed us the rock stained by the younger man's life…
blood。 In those days there was a simple iron railing around the spot where
Hamilton had expired； but of later years I have been unable to find any
trace of the place。 The tide of immigration has brought so deep a deposit
of 〃saloons〃 and suburban 〃balls〃 that the very face of the land is changed；
old lovers of that shore know it no more。 Never were the environs of a city
so wantonly and recklessly degraded。 Municipalities have vied with
millionaires in soiling and debasing the exquisite shores of our river； that；
thirty years ago； were unrivalled the world over。
The glamour of the past still lies for me upon this landscape in spite of
its many defacements。 The river whispers of boyish boating parties； and
the woods recall a thousand childish hopes and fears； resolute departures
to join the pirates； or the red men in their strongholds … journeys boldly
carried out until twilight cooled our courage and the supper…hour proved a
stronger temptation than war and carnage。
When I sat down this summer evening to write a few lines about happy
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days on the banks of the Hudson； I hardly realized how sweet those
memories were to me。 The rewriting of the old names has evoked from
their long sleep so many loved faces。 Arms seem reaching out to me from
the past。 The house is very still tonight。 I seem to be nearer my loved dead
than to the living。 The bells of my lost 〃Is〃 are ringing clear in the silence。
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CHAPTER 17 … Royalty At Play
FEW more amusing sights are to be seen in these days； than that of
crowned heads running away from their dull old courts and functions；
roughing it in hotels and villas； gambling； yachting and playing at being
rich nobodies。 With much intelligence they have all chosen the same
Republican playground； where visits cannot possibly be twisted into
meaning any new 〃combination〃 or political move； thus assuring
themselves the freedom from care or responsibility； that seems to be the
aim of their existence。 Alongside of well…to…do Royalties in good paying
situations； are those out of a job； who are looking about for a 〃place。〃 One
cannot take an afternoon's ramble anywhere between Cannes and Mentone
without meeting a half…dozen of these magnates。
The other day； in one short walk； I ran across three Empresses； two
Queens； and an Heir…apparent； and then fled to my hotel； fearing to be
unfitted for America； if I went on 〃keeping such company。〃 They are
knowing enough； these wandering great ones； and after trying many places
have hit on this charming coast as offering more than any other for their
comfort and enjoyment。 The vogue of these sunny shores dates from their
annexation to France； … a price Victor Emmanuel reluctantly paid for
French help in his war with Austria。 Napoleon III。's demand for Savoy and
this littoral； was first made known to Victor Emmanuel at a state ball at
Genoa。 Savoy was his birthplace and his home！ The King broke into a
wild temper； cursing the French Emperor and making insulting allusions to
his parentage； saying he had not one drop of Bonaparte blood in his veins。
The King's frightened courtiers tried to stop this outburst； showing him the
French Ambassador at his elbow。 With a superhuman effort Victor
Emmanuel controlled himself； and turning to the Ambassador； said：
〃I fear my tongue ran away with me！〃 With a smile and a bow the
great French diplomatist remarked：
〃SIRE； I am so deaf I have not heard a word your Majesty has been
saying！〃
The fashion of coming to the Riviera for health or for amusement；
dates from the sixties； when the Empress of Russia passed a winter at Nice；
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as a last attempt to prolong the existence of the dying Tsarewitsch； her son。
There also the next season the Duke of Edinburgh wooed and won her
daughter （then the greatest heiress in Europe） for his bride。 The world
moves fast and a journey it required a matter of life and death to decide on；
then； is gayly undertaken now； that a prince may race a yacht； or a princess
try her luck at the gambling tables。 When one reflects that the 〃royal
caste；〃 in Europe alone； numbers some eight hundred people； and that the
East is beginning to send out its more enterprising crowned heads to get a
taste of the fun； that beyond drawing their salaries； these good people have
absolutely nothing to do； except to amuse themselves； it is no wonder that
this happy land is crowded with royal pleasure…seekers。
After a try at Florence and Aix； 〃the Queen〃 has been faithful to
Cimiez； a charming site back of Nice。 That gay city is always EN FETE
the day she arrives； as her carriages pass surrounded by French cavalry；
one can catch a glimpse of her big face； and dowdy little figure； which
nevertheless she can make so dignified when occasion requires。 The stay
here is； indeed； a holiday for this record…breaking sovereign； who potters
about her private grounds of a morning in a donkey…chair； sunning herself
and watching her Battenberg grandchildren at play。 In the afternoon； she
drives a couple of hours … in an open carriage … one outrider in black livery
alone distinguishing her turnout from the others。
The Prince of Wales makes his headquarters at Cannes where he has
poor luck in sailing the Brittania； for which he consoles himself with jolly
dinners at Monte Carlo。 You can see him almost any evening in the
RESTAURANT DE PARIS； surrounded by his own particular set； … the
Duchess of Devonshire （who started a penniless German officer's daughter；
and became twice a duchess）； Lady de Grey and Lady Wolverton； both
showing near six feet of slender English beauty； at their side； and lovelier
than either； the Countess of Essex。 The husbands of these 〃Merry Wives〃
are absent； but do not seem to be missed； as the ladies sit smoking and
laughing over their coffee； the party only breaking up towards eleven
o'clock to try its luck at TRENTE ET QUARANTE； until a 〃special〃 takes
them back to Cannes。
He is getting sadly old and fat； is England's heir； the likeness to his
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mamma becoming more marked each year。 His voice； too； is oddly like
hers； deep and guttural； more adapted to the paternal German （which all
this family speak when alone） than to his native English。 Hair； he has none；
except a little fringe across the back of his head； just above a fine large roll
of fat that blushes above his shirt…collar。 Too bad that this discovery of the
microbe of baldness comes rather late for him！ He has a pleasant twinkle
in his small eyes； and an entire absence of POSE； that accounts largely for
his immense and enduring popularity。
But the Hotel Cap Martin shelters quieter crowned heads。 The
Emperor and Empress of Austria； who tramp about the hilly roads； the
King and Queen of Saxony and the fat Arch…duchess Stephanie。 Austria's
Empress looks sadly changed and ill； as does another lady of whom one
can occasionally catch a glimpse； walking painfully with a crutch…stick in
the shadow of the trees near her villa。 It is hard to believe that this white…
haired； bent old woman was once the imperial beauty who from the salons
of the Tuileries dictated the fashions of the world！ Few have paid so dearly
for their brief hour of splendor！
Cannes with its excellent harbor is the centre